Monviso – East Ridge (3841 m)

Monviso (3841 m) is the dominate and highest mountain in the “Alpi Cozie” mountain range, well known for its pyramid-like shape, and because it is higher than all its neighbouring peaks by about 500 m it can be seen from some striking distance. It long enjoyed a reputation for inaccessibility second only to that of the Matterhorn and was first climbed, lead by the mountain guide Michel Auguste Croz, on the 30th of August 1861. The view from the summit is very extensive, both over the plains of Piedmont and the mountain ranges of Italy and France. It is said that on a very clear day the Mediterranean can be seen and also the island of Corsica.

The East Ridge of Monviso is a technical AD rock high mountain route, one of the finest routes to reach the top of the “Re di Pietra” (“King of rocks”) with about 1100 m of climbing up to IV rock pitches. It is particularly interesting with doing the ascent of the St. Robert’s tower (which can also be avoided), plus a long descent over its normal route on the south face, makes it a real climbing experience. Either way, there are always some trickier rock climbing pitches, plus snow ground to traverse.

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Prerequisite skills
This route is suitable for people with prior alpine climbing experience. The success over the years has been with climbers that generally have taken and successfully completed a preparation program, or equivalent experience. Climbers must be able to climb rock quickly with alpine boots and a rucksack, and be in excellent fitness as summit day is over 1000 m of technical climbing.

Of course if you feel you lack some of those experiences or uncertain of your own level, please feel free to contact us. We will do our best to give you the best experience possible.

This route is suitable for the later part of the summer season. The best period is from late July to end of September. However, late season such as October can provide many opportunities for great climbing and can be a bit more solitude.

Main Program
The following is a basic 2 days climbing program. Please note that we be very flexibla and even extend it to include prior climbing days to brush up on skills, confirm your fitness and ability. There might be changes due to weather or mountain conditions.

Day 1 Sunday : Arrival day in Crissolo – Meeting
Arrival day in Crissolo. The hotel will be available for check in the afternoon and in the evening we have a gathering to meet in person and discuss the plan for upcoming days. If you want to spend additional days before or after the climb please let us know.

Day 2 Monday: Crissolo – Pian del Re – Rifugio Quintino Sella
We set off in the morning by taxi or bus towards Pian del Re (0.5 h) to start the approach walk, where the River Po has it source, usually it takes 3 h. The goal for the day is Rifugio Quintino Sella (2640 m), named after one of the founders of Club Alpino Italiano, where we will spend the night. It gives us the opportunity to study the route close by, it starts just behind the hut, and go through some safety routines and final kit check in the afternoon.

Day 3 Tuesday: Rifugio Quintino Sella – Monviso – Rifugio Quintino Sella
We climb Monviso via its East ridge, just over 1100 m of technical ridge climbing, and requires a high level of physical energy and technical ability. The approach is short, we might use the crampons due to hard frozen snow, and the first part of the route we climb in the dark. The lower part of the route is mainly scrambling and it steepens as we ascend. We will tak our first longer break just before we reach the St. Robert’s tower, where we either can climb it or avoid it. Depending on the choice we reach the final summit ridge and the way to the summit is ahead of us. The view from the summit is very extensive, both over the plains of Piedmont and the mountain ranges of Italy and France. It is said that on a very clear day the Mediterranean can be seen and also the island of Corsica. The descent is the normal route on its south face and we should be back at the Rifugio Quintino Sella in the early afternoon. Either we can take a short break at the hut before walking down to Pian del Re or we can spend the night at the hut and have a wonderful celebration of our successful climb. Climbers should plan on an 7-9 hour day of intense high cardio physical exercise.

Day 4 Wednesday: Departure day
Day of departure back home.

Small groups
We recommend to be at most 1 climber/guide during this ascent (depending on the experience of the climbers we might even agree to go with 2 climbers/guide in rare cases). There might even be other guides with independent groups working together.

Personal equipment
The following is a general equipment list, all communal safety equipment (e.g. ropes, ice screws, rock protections, etc) is provided by us. If you have any questions please feel free to contact us. Equipment marked with * can be provided by your guide when needed. Experienced climbers will find it best to bring their own tried and tested personal equipment.

• One classical mountaineering ice axes, a straight-shafted one, such as Petzl Summit or Grivel Jorasses 2.0*
• Harness, with adjustable leg loops and gear loops.*
• Crampons, classica model, such as Petzl Sarken or Grivel G12.*
• Helmet*
• 1 Belay device with a HMS screwgate karbiner.*
• 2 large locking HMS karabiner.*
• 2 Prusik cord.*
• 1 sewn tape sling 240 cm.*
• Poles, adjustable that can be mounted on a backpack.
• Backpack, 35-45 liters, with straps for climbing equipment.
• Ski goggles, “orange/yellow/clear” lenses to be used in windy weather.
• Sunglasses, category 3-4.
• Rigid mountaineering boots, a B2-B3 rated boot is most suitable.
• Gaiters
• Gortex jacket or similar.
• Gortex pants or similar with ventilation possibilities.
• Mountain trousers combination in some softshell fabric or similar.
• Down jacket lightweight.
• 1 pair of base layer, synthetic or wool.
• 1 pairs of warm socks.
• Mid layer
• 2 pair of technical climbing gloves (thinner and thicker)
• Warm hat to fit under a helmet.
• Sun hat to protect you against the Sun.
• Head torch with spare batteries.
• Sun block
• Travel sheets to sleep in at the huts.
• Water bottle (1-2 liters), since we do not recommend Camelback systems.
• Small medical kit.

• Professional Mountain Guide authorized by UIAGM/IFMGA.
• All local transport needed.
• Nights at mountain huts including breakfast and dinner.
• Hotel accommodation in twin double rooms including breakfast before and after the climb (a single room can, where possible be arranged at additional cost).

Not included
• Lunch and drinks during the days.
• Personal climbing equipment (see list above).
• Travel to/from designated meeting point.
• Mandatory insurance to cover mountain rescue costs.

Number of days: 2 days climbing, 3 nights accommodation.
Price: Please contact us.

Please use the form if you have any questions or want us to contact you.

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