Technical Ice Climbing in Cogne

A great Ice Private Guiding week with Eleonore (unfortunately Maria could not join this year) and we continued to explore the exciting world of ice climbing and what “ICE-FIKA” means. This winter, the second one in a row now, has seen some very tricky early season conditions due to very high temperatures. I even could not go skiing due to the lack of snow and in general there were only a few ice-falls climbable (mostly overcrowded). However, as last year, Maria came just in the right moment with the lower temperatures in Cogne (Italy), as always one of the best and most secure place in the Alps regarding ice-conditions, with a “long” season and 100+ routes at all grades. It was so cold the first day, below -20, so the gasoline in my car froze. Hence, we had to start directly with a plan B and ended up climbing around the classical Lillaz icefall were we went through all the safety aspects in order to have a safe week’s climbing. In the end we had some fantastic days in and around Cogne climbing the following:

  • Lillaz (WI3-4) – excellent training ground with a short approach and long route.
  • Lillaz Gully (WI4 M) – great route and very similar to high mountain routes in the Mt Blanc massive.
  • Vertigine di Porcellana (WI3) – great route and the second hardest grade three in the valley.
  • Tutto Relativo (WI4) – great route with a delicate pitch in the middle.
  • A great thanks to Maria for a brilliant week and next year we hope that Maria will join us! Of course we also thank Andrea and crew at Hotel Ondezana for the excellent hospitality and help with my car, until next time!

    [nggallery id=60]


    Comments are closed.